Destinations
Everywhere we've been, and everything written about it.
Each region gets the main guide, then the outdoors, the five places, the deep dive, and the tea underneath. Filter by place or by the kind of thing you're after.
High Atlas, MoroccoThe guide
The High Atlas and the South of Morocco
Over the Tizi n'Tichka, into the Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs, and the mint tea that runs through all of it.
High Atlas, MoroccoFive places
Five Places in the South of Morocco Worth Crossing an Ocean For
A collapsing Glaoui palace, a kasbah in a palm oasis, and a rose harvest in May.
High Atlas, MoroccoOutdoors
What to Do Outdoors in the High Atlas
Trekking into the M'Goun, the gorges before the buses arrive, and the old caravan road.
High Atlas, MoroccoDeep dive
Aït Bougmez: The Valley They Call Happy
A flat green floor of barley and walnut between bare mountains, at the pace of mules.
High Atlas, MoroccoThe tea
Atay: A Ritual Around a Leaf It Does Not Grow
Gunpowder green, a fist of spearmint, and a pour from as high as your nerve allows.
Ilam, NepalThe guide
Ilam: The Other Side of the Ridge
One ridge east of Darjeeling, the same hills grow tea almost nobody can name.
Darjeeling, IndiaThe guide
Darjeeling: Toy Trains, Tea Gardens, and a Town Above the Clouds
A train that should not exist, and the tea the world argues over.
Darjeeling, IndiaFive places
Five Places in Darjeeling Worth Crossing an Ocean For
An 1850 monastery, a spiral of track, and a bakery the whole town passes through.
Darjeeling, IndiaOutdoors
What to Do Outdoors in Darjeeling
The Singalila ridge to Sandakphu, an 1881 steam engine, and Tenzing Rock.
Darjeeling, IndiaDeep dive
Tiger Hill: The Dawn That Turns Kanchenjunga to Gold
The pre-dawn drive, the crowd falling silent, and Everest small on the horizon.
Darjeeling, IndiaThe tea
The Darjeeling Flush
From a surgeon's garden in 1841 to the most protected name in tea.
Cork, IrelandThe guide
Cork and the South of Ireland
The English Market, Cobh and the Titanic, and the wild road out to Mizen Head.
Cork, IrelandFive places
Five Places in the South of Ireland Worth Crossing an Ocean For
A lake that glows at night, a headland at the end of the road, and three more.
Cork, IrelandOutdoors
What to Do Outdoors in West Cork
Mizen Head, the Sheep's Head Way, Lough Hyne after dark, and humpbacks offshore.
Cork, IrelandDeep dive
Gougane Barra: The Still Lake Where the River Lee Begins
A mist-held lake in the mountains, an island oratory, and the source of the River Lee.
Cork, IrelandThe tea
The Irish Cup
Strong, milky, and everywhere, in a country that has never grown a leaf of it.
São Miguel, AzoresThe guide
The Azores: Europe's Most Forgotten Islands
Two thousand miles out in the Atlantic, and greener than anywhere in Europe.
São Miguel, AzoresFive places
Five Places in São Miguel Worth Crossing an Ocean For
A tea house where the water turns the cup violet, and four the buses drive past.
São Miguel, AzoresOutdoors
What to Do Outdoors in São Miguel
Whales off Ponta Delgada, the Sete Cidades rim, and the tea trail nobody walks.
São Miguel, AzoresDeep dive
The Calderas of São Miguel
Twin lakes in two colours, earth that still steams, and a crater the fog keeps.
São Miguel, AzoresThe tea
Gorreana: The Tea Plantation That Never Closed
Since 1883, on the north coast, still run by the same family on the same machines.
Fujian, ChinaThe guide
Fuding: The Coast Where White Tea Begins
Granite over the East China Sea, and the most delicate tea in the world below it.
Fujian, ChinaFive places
Five Places in Fujian Worth Crossing an Ocean For
A thousand-year-old mother tree, the golden flats at Beiqi, and three more.
Fujian, ChinaOutdoors
What to Do Outdoors Around Fuding
Taimu's caves and peaks, the grassland on Yushan Island, and the hills in picking season.
Fujian, ChinaDeep dive
The Xiapu Mudflats
The bay empties twice a day and miles of bamboo poles turn to beaten gold.
Alishan, TaiwanThe guide
A Guide to Alishan, Taiwan
A narrow-gauge railway into cedar older than most countries, and the oolong it hides.
Alishan, TaiwanFive places
Five Cafés in Taiwan Worth Going Out of Your Way For
A stone cottage in the tea fields, a lantern-lit teahouse over the Pacific, and three more.
Alishan, TaiwanDeep dive
Inside Alishan's Ancient Forests
Some of these cypress have stood two thousand years. The logging era nearly took them.
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